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Albania had used to frequently top lists for the worst city in Europe. Decades of Stalinist rule left Tirana gray and bleak and lacked infrastructure and services. The fall of communism in 1992 only made the situation worse, as anarchy engulfed the city and crime began to grow.

That's changed everything now. Home to a fast-growing population of nearly one million (the total population of Albania is about three million), Tirana has a buzz that you will not find elsewhere in this beguiling country.

You can easily cover the central region of Tirana in a day since it's a small city. But as well as a fun tour of the handful of museums, landmarks, historic buildings and parks, make time to marvel at the concrete housing estates of the area. Yeah, it really does. Rendered in colors of the rainbow, they bring light to what once was a very monochrome cityscape.

Albania might not be popular for its cuisine but that's no excuse not to concentrate on food. Look for the excellent coffee and beer (Islam is the prevailing religion, but it is practiced in a very inclusive manner), as well as great pastries and good gelato.

Founded in 1987 by Albania's dictator Enver Hoxha's daughter (who ruled Albania tyrannically from 1944–85) as a museum for her father, it now sits abandoned, stripped of the tiles that once covered it, and splattered with graffiti.

The nightlife scene of Tirana moves up a notch every year and the clubs of the area, which are mostly clustered around Blloku, differ greatly in style and atmosphere. They are best visited by a local, who knows what to attend (and what to avoid). Nevertheless, be mindful that Albania is still a conservative society.

There's plenty of travel options you can use from the airport. However, you can get a taxi, board a bus or go for car hire if you don't want to fly by these.

Depending on what you want both travel choices are easy. If you are planning to visit the country as a tourist, it is advisable that you rent a car. You can get cheap car hire services from the country's various car rental companies, and you can get the car of your choosing.

There are ancient cycling tracks that cross the country; if you're a cycling enthusiast, that might interest you. The country boasts excellent hotel facilities that will suit any tourist's tastes. Whether you want a luxury or regular hotel, there's plenty available for each.

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